Archeryman.com
Help for Archery Hunters
This 8-point whitetail deer was taken opening day of archery season 2009 right at dusk. It presented a broadside view at 17 yards after responding to a Primos Hardwood Grunter deer call... A perfect double lung shot was made with the Mathews Switchback XP. The arrow was a Carbon Express Maxima 350 equipped with a Wasp Hammer SST 100 gr. broadhead. Scent from a Buck Bomb may have kept his interest long enough to complete the shot.
Tracking
Video
The purpose of this web site is to help the beginner or struggling archery hunter to be successful. There is no guarantee that the best hunter can go out and get a deer on a given day but there is a lot you can do to increase your chances. You know those guys that seem to get deer every year? It's not because they have a magic location where deer walk by all day. There is no such place. They have knowledge. Even if you don't score, archery hunting can be fun, exciting, and a great sport. You get outside, get needed exercise, breath cleaner air, see wildlife, clear your mind and learn something to use next time. One friend told me,"The fun of archery is all the things you do wrong." If you could easily walk out and get a deer every time, it wouldn't be much of a sport. My first 3 or 4 years of archery hunting were a joke. I made many mistakes and blamed it on bad luck. It took me some time to figure out that my left hand was "torquing" the bow, causing poor accuracy. I shot at moving deer, not realizing how easy it is to stop them for a better shot. I never realized some deer duck up to 4 inches before the arrow arrives. I wasn't sure where to aim at the deer. I didn't know the necessary tactics to be ready when the opportunity arrived.
Now I want to save others from making many of these same mistakes. I had poor archery hunting skills. After learning what to do and what not to do, archery hunting became much more enjoyable. The majority of information here is not only from my personal experiences, but common knowledge from other archery hunters, archery hunting books, archery TV programs and the web. I have tried to indicate if any information is solely from personal experience verses common knowledge. I'm not an expert, but seem to get deer every year. There's a lot of archery hunting information in books and web sites, yet there is information here that is not included in these "long-winded" writings. Have you ever read something, then thought, "Why didn't they just tell me 'this,' or 'that'?" I'm writing what would have been good to know during my first year of archery hunting. My object is to have a short and concentrated web site with practical information. I have stressed the main problem areas I've encountered, thinking other archery hunters are similar. I've included several links with more detail but all the important information is on this page.
Archery hunting is challenging and requires more skill. You need to get close to place a good shot. Your window of opportunity may be only a few seconds. To draw the bow, you need to move. Even with the best shots, deer generally run at least 30 yards and sometimes several hundred yards. You may need to follow a blood trail. If you like a challenge, archery hunting may be for you! This web site is dedicated to my brother, Mike Bowman, who inspired me to try archery hunting. He's shared a lot of information and enthusiasm for this sport. I hope you enjoy this. email your comments Thank you!
Noise is also very important. You want your bow to be as quiet as possible. When you release the arrow, the bow makes several noises. The release makes a noise, the string, arrow and limbs all make noise. The louder the noise, the greater the chance is that the deer will "duck the arrow." Sometimes, deer will have a reflex reaction to the noise of a bow, causing them to duck. This could make your arrow hit the deer up to 4 inches high. Some guys want to spend as little as possible and just get something that works. Others want to get some top brand name and spend a lot. The important thing is that you like your bow.
You will also need to be measured for "draw length". Your draw length is the distance in inches from the bow grip to the bow string at full draw. Most people need 27 - 29 inches. You generally subtract 1/2" if you're using a mechanical release requiring a loop on your bow string. Now, you need to select a draw weight. Select a draw weight that allows you to draw back the bow without excessive strain or movement. You should be able to hold the bow straight out with your arm parallel to the ground and pull the string straight back with a smooth movement without excessive shaking. I use a 60# pull and that's more than enough. Too heavy a draw weight will cause excessive body movements and a longer draw time as well as more noise when released. This could cause the deer to spot you or give the deer more time to walk by.
Something else to consider is the "let off". My bow has 85% let off. This means I have to pull the string back with 60 pounds of force until the last 3 or so inches. During the last 3 or so inches of the draw, the bow cam(s) work to lessen the amount of pull required to hold the bow at full draw. My 60 pound bow with 85% lay off requires only 9 pounds of force to hold the string at full draw. I've had times where I had to hold the bow at full draw for 1 minute or more. The 85% let off is nice on those occasions. Let offs of 60% to 85% are common.
When you make your purchase, you will need to pick out things like an arrow rest, sights, silencers, release, arrows, etc. The arrow rest is where the arrow sits on the bow, just above the grip. There are many types and they all work. Some are made of 2 prong points where the arrow sits in between. The whisker biscuit was made so the arrow shaft sits inside a circle of brush fibers. This allows a bow to be in any position when making a shot. You need to use plastic vanes with a whisker biscuit because both rubber vanes and feather vanes are damaged by repeated shots through the biscuit's brush fibers. I prefer the newer "drop away" type. When you release the arrow, the arrow rest drops away, allowing the arrow vanes (or feathers) to pass by without striking the rest. They all work, the important thing is that you like your arrow rest.
The bow will need to be outfitted with sights. I prefer peep sights where one sight is in the string of the bow and the other is attached to the riser. Many prefer a "kisser button" where you draw back the string and a "button" on the string makes contact with the corner of your mouth. In theory, this puts the rear of the arrow in the same place every time so only a front sight is needed. Some hunters don't use sights at all. All sights have advantages and disadvantages. Peep sights block light so are difficult to use in poor lighting. The kisser button may not always make your eye line up in the same place and could cause accuracy problems. No sights at all? I don't know how they do it but some hunters are pretty good with no sights.
Most archery hunters use a mechanical release. This device attaches to the bow string near the arrow nock point and is held in the hand. Some are also attached to the wrist. The release allows you to draw the string back and pull a trigger on the release to let the string go. Releases either use your index finger or thumb to trigger the release. Some archers still pull the string back with their fingers but the modern release is preferred my most.
Many releases also use a small "loop" of string attached to the bow string at the arrow nock point. This loop centers the pulling force directly behind the arrow and causes less wear on the bow string.
Most hunters add string and limb silencers. These are rubber devices that help quiet vibrations from the bow. For arrows, most use graphite these days. Carbon/graphite (carbon) composite shafts are lighter than aluminum making for faster arrow speeds. Carbon shafts are smaller diameter and may penetrate better if you hit bone. Its important to match the arrow with your "draw length" and "draw weight." Most carbon arrows need to be cut to the proper draw length. You should have 1 - 2" of arrow shaft in front of the arrow rest at full draw. Someone with a 28" draw length may have arrows 30 - 31" long. Shafts should be matched with your draw weight. Carbon arrows come in different stiffness's causing the arrow to flex differently when the string is released. This is mostly important with "single cam" bows. Dual cam bows push the arrow straight with minimal flex. Experts claim this is important, so you should get the right shafts for your setup. Carbon arrows now come with a chart that explains what draw weight and length the arrows can be used for.
The basic idea is to have the bow launch the arrow in a straight path. If your bow is not tuned properly, the arrow will oscillate or wobble at the beginning of its flight. This will cause poor and inconsistent accuracy and lower the speed of the arrow. An out of tune bow can make broadheads shoot up to 15" off target at 20 yards.
Tuning is done done by adjusting the arrow rest and/or the string nock and cam tilt. My preferred method is called the "paper test." This is done by shooting an arrow at a paper held in some kind of a frame at a distance of 4 to 8 feet away. You want to see a single hole with the 3 arrow vanes tearing the paper equally around it. If your bow is out of tune, you will see a hole where the tip of the arrow hit then offset from that hole will be the 3 vane marks. I suggest using 2 different distances like 4 then 8 feet because it's possible to be on at 1 distance and off at the other.
Another tuning method is the "bare shaft." An arrow with no vanes or feathers is shot at a foam block type target at a distance of 10 or more yards away. Because it has no vanes or feathers, the rear of the arrow will not be stabilized. If the bow is in tune, the arrow will stick straight into the target. If the bow is out of tune, the arrow will stick the target with the rear of the arrow off center. The store where I bought my bow set it up with the "bare shaft" method. I checked it with the paper tune method and it was right on however, this method may not be recommended for all types of bows. I have found that other methods to tune your bow, including alignment "T's" and other devices, are a compromise and not as good. I prefer the "Paper Test". There are several good articles on the web that demonstrate tuning procedures so I won't go far into it here. Basically, you shoot an arrow through paper at 6 or so feet away and adjust the arrow rest until the arrow tip and vanes go through the same hole on your paper.
Sight in your bow only after its properly tuned. To sight in your bow, you only adjust the front sight. Adjust the front sight in the opposite direction that you want the arrow to go. If your arrows are hitting high, move the front sight up, etc..
The purpose of this web site is to help the beginner or struggling archery hunter to be successful. There is no guarantee that the best hunter can go out and get a deer on a given day but there is a lot you can do to increase your chances. You know those guys that seem to get deer every year? It's not because they have a magic location where deer walk by all day. There is no such place. They have knowledge. Even if you don't score, archery hunting can be fun, exciting, and a great sport. You get outside, get needed exercise, breath cleaner air, see wildlife, clear your mind and learn something to use next time. One friend told me,"The fun of archery is all the things you do wrong." If you could easily walk out and get a deer every time, it wouldn't be much of a sport. My first 3 or 4 years of archery hunting were a joke. I made many mistakes and blamed it on bad luck. It took me some time to figure out that my left hand was "torquing" the bow, causing poor accuracy. I shot at moving deer, not realizing how easy it is to stop them for a better shot. I never realized some deer duck up to 4 inches before the arrow arrives. I wasn't sure where to aim at the deer. I didn't know the necessary tactics to be ready when the opportunity arrived.
Now I want to save others from making many of these same mistakes. I had poor archery hunting skills. After learning what to do and what not to do, archery hunting became much more enjoyable. The majority of information here is not only from my personal experiences, but common knowledge from other archery hunters, archery hunting books, archery TV programs and the web. I have tried to indicate if any information is solely from personal experience verses common knowledge. I'm not an expert, but seem to get deer every year. There's a lot of archery hunting information in books and web sites, yet there is information here that is not included in these "long-winded" writings. Have you ever read something, then thought, "Why didn't they just tell me 'this,' or 'that'?" I'm writing what would have been good to know during my first year of archery hunting. My object is to have a short and concentrated web site with practical information. I have stressed the main problem areas I've encountered, thinking other archery hunters are similar. I've included several links with more detail but all the important information is on this page.
Why Archery Hunt?
I have found Archery Hunting to be a
great sport. Getting out in the woods a full 6 weeks before
gun season is a great advantage. Because of the way deer
mating season progresses, by the time gun season starts, bucks
are usually past the "chasing" stage and have settled down
with does. Bucks become careless for a week or two in
late October or early November. Big experienced bucks wander
the woods in daylight hours looking for doe. Because of the
low number of archery hunters compared to gun hunters, the
deer are not as wary and let down their guard. After the first
day of gun season, it's difficult to see a buck. My first year
of archery season I saw more bucks than the previous 15 years
of gun season. It's still a thrill to see a big buck strutting
through the woods with its rack up high.Archery hunting is challenging and requires more skill. You need to get close to place a good shot. Your window of opportunity may be only a few seconds. To draw the bow, you need to move. Even with the best shots, deer generally run at least 30 yards and sometimes several hundred yards. You may need to follow a blood trail. If you like a challenge, archery hunting may be for you! This web site is dedicated to my brother, Mike Bowman, who inspired me to try archery hunting. He's shared a lot of information and enthusiasm for this sport. I hope you enjoy this. email your comments Thank you!
Buy
a Bow and Accessories
If you are committed to archery hunting,
the first step is to get a bow that you like. I would search
the web and talk to other hunters to get familiar with archery
equipment. I suggest supporting your nearby archery supplier
too. Hopefully, they will have demo models and an archery
range. You can also travel to a Cabelas, Red Head, Gander
Mountain or any store where you can try out a bow before
buying it. Read online reviews and talk to other hunters and
suppliers to try to get the right bow for yourself. Almost
every bow out there can do the job but most select equipment
based on how much you want to spend, your dedication,
personality and personal preferences. There are also some
things to educate yourself about first. For example: just
because a bow is faster doesn't mean it's better. To get
faster arrow speed, manufacturers reduce the brace height. The
brace height is the distance from the bow string to the back
of the handle or grip. Bows with short brace height are
considered to be more difficult to shoot accurately. Noise is also very important. You want your bow to be as quiet as possible. When you release the arrow, the bow makes several noises. The release makes a noise, the string, arrow and limbs all make noise. The louder the noise, the greater the chance is that the deer will "duck the arrow." Sometimes, deer will have a reflex reaction to the noise of a bow, causing them to duck. This could make your arrow hit the deer up to 4 inches high. Some guys want to spend as little as possible and just get something that works. Others want to get some top brand name and spend a lot. The important thing is that you like your bow.
You will also need to be measured for "draw length". Your draw length is the distance in inches from the bow grip to the bow string at full draw. Most people need 27 - 29 inches. You generally subtract 1/2" if you're using a mechanical release requiring a loop on your bow string. Now, you need to select a draw weight. Select a draw weight that allows you to draw back the bow without excessive strain or movement. You should be able to hold the bow straight out with your arm parallel to the ground and pull the string straight back with a smooth movement without excessive shaking. I use a 60# pull and that's more than enough. Too heavy a draw weight will cause excessive body movements and a longer draw time as well as more noise when released. This could cause the deer to spot you or give the deer more time to walk by.
Something else to consider is the "let off". My bow has 85% let off. This means I have to pull the string back with 60 pounds of force until the last 3 or so inches. During the last 3 or so inches of the draw, the bow cam(s) work to lessen the amount of pull required to hold the bow at full draw. My 60 pound bow with 85% lay off requires only 9 pounds of force to hold the string at full draw. I've had times where I had to hold the bow at full draw for 1 minute or more. The 85% let off is nice on those occasions. Let offs of 60% to 85% are common.
When you make your purchase, you will need to pick out things like an arrow rest, sights, silencers, release, arrows, etc. The arrow rest is where the arrow sits on the bow, just above the grip. There are many types and they all work. Some are made of 2 prong points where the arrow sits in between. The whisker biscuit was made so the arrow shaft sits inside a circle of brush fibers. This allows a bow to be in any position when making a shot. You need to use plastic vanes with a whisker biscuit because both rubber vanes and feather vanes are damaged by repeated shots through the biscuit's brush fibers. I prefer the newer "drop away" type. When you release the arrow, the arrow rest drops away, allowing the arrow vanes (or feathers) to pass by without striking the rest. They all work, the important thing is that you like your arrow rest.
The bow will need to be outfitted with sights. I prefer peep sights where one sight is in the string of the bow and the other is attached to the riser. Many prefer a "kisser button" where you draw back the string and a "button" on the string makes contact with the corner of your mouth. In theory, this puts the rear of the arrow in the same place every time so only a front sight is needed. Some hunters don't use sights at all. All sights have advantages and disadvantages. Peep sights block light so are difficult to use in poor lighting. The kisser button may not always make your eye line up in the same place and could cause accuracy problems. No sights at all? I don't know how they do it but some hunters are pretty good with no sights.
Most archery hunters use a mechanical release. This device attaches to the bow string near the arrow nock point and is held in the hand. Some are also attached to the wrist. The release allows you to draw the string back and pull a trigger on the release to let the string go. Releases either use your index finger or thumb to trigger the release. Some archers still pull the string back with their fingers but the modern release is preferred my most.
Many releases also use a small "loop" of string attached to the bow string at the arrow nock point. This loop centers the pulling force directly behind the arrow and causes less wear on the bow string.
Most hunters add string and limb silencers. These are rubber devices that help quiet vibrations from the bow. For arrows, most use graphite these days. Carbon/graphite (carbon) composite shafts are lighter than aluminum making for faster arrow speeds. Carbon shafts are smaller diameter and may penetrate better if you hit bone. Its important to match the arrow with your "draw length" and "draw weight." Most carbon arrows need to be cut to the proper draw length. You should have 1 - 2" of arrow shaft in front of the arrow rest at full draw. Someone with a 28" draw length may have arrows 30 - 31" long. Shafts should be matched with your draw weight. Carbon arrows come in different stiffness's causing the arrow to flex differently when the string is released. This is mostly important with "single cam" bows. Dual cam bows push the arrow straight with minimal flex. Experts claim this is important, so you should get the right shafts for your setup. Carbon arrows now come with a chart that explains what draw weight and length the arrows can be used for.
Clothing
I
recommend full camouflage from head to toe. I don't use
orange. I personally feel it's not needed during archery
season. Deer are color blind but do notice brighter colors
as brighter shades of gray. My favorite is cheap
camouflage coveralls from K-mart. I like coveralls because
they go on fast, are warmer because no air can get up
inside a jacket, and bugs or ticks can't get at you. You
can go up from here to higher priced, better insulated,
scent lock type coveralls. The scent lock type absorb body
odors and may help. If your after trophy bucks, take a
serious look at scent lock clothing. The bigger bucks are
the smartest and if there is any hint of danger, they
approach from down wind. These have got to help. Rubber
camouflage boots are recommended to block foot odor (some
need these more than others). If you don't have
rubber boots, try putting plastic bags over your socks.
For your head, a simple hat is not good enough. Get
something with camouflage that covers all of your head and
neck with an opening for your front face only. I prefer
something with a visor or brim in front to block rain and
the sun from your face. Face netting and face paint could
help. Face paints might help if a close deer spots you. If
you get spotted by a deer and don't move, many times the
deer will not spook. If the deer has a hard time seeing
your painted face, the better for you. Camouflage gloves
are necessary too. If it's warm in your area, you might
want to carry your hunting clothes and put them on at your
stand to avoid getting too warm. Keep your clothing quiet.
Be very careful of plastic buckles, game calls or anything
else in your chest area that could make a noise. I
recently had a large 8 point within 20 yards when my deer
call hit the arrow nock. The deer looked right at me then
ran. Don't forget to wash your cloths occasionally. After
2-4 hunting days, your cloths will give off more body
odor.
Tune Your Bow
Next, you want to make sure the
bow is set up or "tuned" properly. Like many things, it's not
difficult if you know what to do. There are several methods of
setting up the bow. If you're not interested in learning or
don't have the time, it's better to have a professional do it
properly. The basic idea is to have the bow launch the arrow in a straight path. If your bow is not tuned properly, the arrow will oscillate or wobble at the beginning of its flight. This will cause poor and inconsistent accuracy and lower the speed of the arrow. An out of tune bow can make broadheads shoot up to 15" off target at 20 yards.
Tuning is done done by adjusting the arrow rest and/or the string nock and cam tilt. My preferred method is called the "paper test." This is done by shooting an arrow at a paper held in some kind of a frame at a distance of 4 to 8 feet away. You want to see a single hole with the 3 arrow vanes tearing the paper equally around it. If your bow is out of tune, you will see a hole where the tip of the arrow hit then offset from that hole will be the 3 vane marks. I suggest using 2 different distances like 4 then 8 feet because it's possible to be on at 1 distance and off at the other.
Another tuning method is the "bare shaft." An arrow with no vanes or feathers is shot at a foam block type target at a distance of 10 or more yards away. Because it has no vanes or feathers, the rear of the arrow will not be stabilized. If the bow is in tune, the arrow will stick straight into the target. If the bow is out of tune, the arrow will stick the target with the rear of the arrow off center. The store where I bought my bow set it up with the "bare shaft" method. I checked it with the paper tune method and it was right on however, this method may not be recommended for all types of bows. I have found that other methods to tune your bow, including alignment "T's" and other devices, are a compromise and not as good. I prefer the "Paper Test". There are several good articles on the web that demonstrate tuning procedures so I won't go far into it here. Basically, you shoot an arrow through paper at 6 or so feet away and adjust the arrow rest until the arrow tip and vanes go through the same hole on your paper.
Sight in your bow only after its properly tuned. To sight in your bow, you only adjust the front sight. Adjust the front sight in the opposite direction that you want the arrow to go. If your arrows are hitting high, move the front sight up, etc..
Take your State's
Hunter's Safety Course and Get your License
Most
states offer an archery hunters safety course. I can't
remember the hours required, but the New York State Course
lasted 2 - 3 days and there was a test at the end. Most of
the information in the course is safety related. They
generally let you shoot different bows and set up a tree
stand. It can be a lot of fun especially with a friend or
two.
Learn to Shoot Your
Bow
OK,
now you need to buy a foam block to shoot at. I use "The
Block." This is a popular target sold at Cabelas, etc. I
got the 18" square model. This was OK, but I recommend
something larger. If you miss and hit the ground, it may
ruin an arrow. Several misses may pay for the larger size.
I firmly believe in sighting in your bow's top sight pin
for a distance of less than 20 yards. The best distance to
sight in your bow is a controversial subject. My personal
experience, and from reading Bobby Worthington's book, Bowhunting Trophy
Whitetails, convinced me to sight in my top pin
for 18 yards. Bobby insists on sighting your bow in for 16
yards. Believe it or not, of the many deer I've got with a
bow, most were shot at distances about or shorter than 16
yards. Now you ask, "Wouldn't I be better off sighting it
in for 20 yards just in case...?" Generally: No. Because preferably
you must hit both lungs or major blood vessels,
there isn't much room to error. Most bad shots hit the
deer high. If you read on, I'll explain why. If you know
you're going to shoot your deer at 20 yards, you could
make an exception. The most important thing here is to
know your bow and your distance. My bow is around 1" high
at 13 yards and right on at 18.
I have found 2 main issues regarding archery hunting. First, generally, you will be hunting with the bow from a stand about 20 feet high. When you shoot down at a distance of 10-16 yards, your arrow could hit 1" higher than if you were at ground level. At 20 yards or more, the error is reduced to almost nothing. Several companies make front sights that compensate for this when the bow is tilted down. If you get one of these sights, you can eliminate this issue.
Second, common knowledge is that the deer will "duck the arrow." The sound of the bow firing the arrow reaches the deer before the arrow hits and the deer moves substantially before the arrow hits. To further complicate the matter, I've found that modern parallel limb compound bows project less noise toward the deer compared to older bows where the limbs are more vertical. A long story short, some bows cause the deer to duck more than others. It's hard to believe, but from the time you pull the release to the time the arrow hits, the deer could duck down 5 or so inches. This is a reflex reaction to the sound of the shot. Now, with a bow sighted in for 18 yards, your deer is only 15 yards away, your arrow might hit the deer 6" above where you aimed. Four inches high is substantial! Now, imagine if your bow was sighted in for 20 yards. If your bow is sighted in for 20 yards, depending on the arrow used and speed, it will be about 1" high at 16 yards and 1 additional inch high because you're elevated in a tree. All of these inches add up! Most poor shots hit the deer high. If you hit high into the thick spine bones or above, generally, you won't get the deer.
In my early days, I hit several deer high only to see them run away with most of arrow sticking out. I attempted tracking for many hours but never got the deer. My success rate went way up when I sighted in the top pin of the front sight for 18 yards and learned to shoot about 1" lower. For all shots up to 20 yards, I aim 1" below the center of the deer right in line with the front leg. With my parallel limb bow, the sound is less to the deer and I seem to be hitting right where I aim. If the deer does or doesn't move, the arrow should hit the lungs or major blood vessels. Later on this page, there is a picture of a deer with the lungs outlined. It's my understanding that at distances beyond 20 - 25 yards, a deer wont duck as much. This is because the sound of the bow is much less and the deer's reflex reaction will be less.
Now, getting back to archery practice. Here are some tips regarding archery shooting. Your left arm needs to be fairly straight and in line with your shoulders. Like gun shooting, you need to pull the release without any jerky motion. When I shoot, I think about only moving my trigger finger and nothing else. Make sure your release hand has your knuckles against your cheek or side of your face. To fire, squeeze the release with a steady but swift motion. Follow through by holding your arm positions for 1 full second after the shot. Grip the bow lightly. Grip the release lightly. You will have accuracy problems if you grip the bow tightly because you might torque the handle. If you grip the release tightly, the same thing can happen. This could cause several inches of errors in all directions. Grip the handle the same every time. The "V" formed by your thumb and index finger should point directly back at the string. I keep a slight bend in my left elbow. If you use a kisser button, be sure your head is in the same position relative to the bow for all shots. If your head turns right or left, up or down, your accuracy could suffer. I set my 2nd pin for 25 yards and 3rd pin for 35 yards. I don't know if I'll ever shoot that far.
Your final step should be to simulate a hunting shot by shooting out of a tree stand down to a ground target at 16 to 20 yards. I recommend you also put on all your hunting cloths. This will give you a final chance to work out any problems with actual hunting conditions. You will also see how high, if any, your arrow hits when shooting down. I recommend you also shoot a broadhead or 2 at your target to see if they shoot any differently. Ideally, there should be no difference between practice arrows with field tips and broad heads. Depending on your equipment, you might see a difference.
I have found 2 main issues regarding archery hunting. First, generally, you will be hunting with the bow from a stand about 20 feet high. When you shoot down at a distance of 10-16 yards, your arrow could hit 1" higher than if you were at ground level. At 20 yards or more, the error is reduced to almost nothing. Several companies make front sights that compensate for this when the bow is tilted down. If you get one of these sights, you can eliminate this issue.
Second, common knowledge is that the deer will "duck the arrow." The sound of the bow firing the arrow reaches the deer before the arrow hits and the deer moves substantially before the arrow hits. To further complicate the matter, I've found that modern parallel limb compound bows project less noise toward the deer compared to older bows where the limbs are more vertical. A long story short, some bows cause the deer to duck more than others. It's hard to believe, but from the time you pull the release to the time the arrow hits, the deer could duck down 5 or so inches. This is a reflex reaction to the sound of the shot. Now, with a bow sighted in for 18 yards, your deer is only 15 yards away, your arrow might hit the deer 6" above where you aimed. Four inches high is substantial! Now, imagine if your bow was sighted in for 20 yards. If your bow is sighted in for 20 yards, depending on the arrow used and speed, it will be about 1" high at 16 yards and 1 additional inch high because you're elevated in a tree. All of these inches add up! Most poor shots hit the deer high. If you hit high into the thick spine bones or above, generally, you won't get the deer.
In my early days, I hit several deer high only to see them run away with most of arrow sticking out. I attempted tracking for many hours but never got the deer. My success rate went way up when I sighted in the top pin of the front sight for 18 yards and learned to shoot about 1" lower. For all shots up to 20 yards, I aim 1" below the center of the deer right in line with the front leg. With my parallel limb bow, the sound is less to the deer and I seem to be hitting right where I aim. If the deer does or doesn't move, the arrow should hit the lungs or major blood vessels. Later on this page, there is a picture of a deer with the lungs outlined. It's my understanding that at distances beyond 20 - 25 yards, a deer wont duck as much. This is because the sound of the bow is much less and the deer's reflex reaction will be less.
Now, getting back to archery practice. Here are some tips regarding archery shooting. Your left arm needs to be fairly straight and in line with your shoulders. Like gun shooting, you need to pull the release without any jerky motion. When I shoot, I think about only moving my trigger finger and nothing else. Make sure your release hand has your knuckles against your cheek or side of your face. To fire, squeeze the release with a steady but swift motion. Follow through by holding your arm positions for 1 full second after the shot. Grip the bow lightly. Grip the release lightly. You will have accuracy problems if you grip the bow tightly because you might torque the handle. If you grip the release tightly, the same thing can happen. This could cause several inches of errors in all directions. Grip the handle the same every time. The "V" formed by your thumb and index finger should point directly back at the string. I keep a slight bend in my left elbow. If you use a kisser button, be sure your head is in the same position relative to the bow for all shots. If your head turns right or left, up or down, your accuracy could suffer. I set my 2nd pin for 25 yards and 3rd pin for 35 yards. I don't know if I'll ever shoot that far.
Your final step should be to simulate a hunting shot by shooting out of a tree stand down to a ground target at 16 to 20 yards. I recommend you also put on all your hunting cloths. This will give you a final chance to work out any problems with actual hunting conditions. You will also see how high, if any, your arrow hits when shooting down. I recommend you also shoot a broadhead or 2 at your target to see if they shoot any differently. Ideally, there should be no difference between practice arrows with field tips and broad heads. Depending on your equipment, you might see a difference.
Your Stand
Location
My success increased when I started using tree stands.
A tree stand has several advantages over ground
hunting. First, deer are very cautious and are
constantly looking for threats to themselves. They
mostly look at the ground. I've had deer within
several feet of my tree stand many times and they have
no idea I'm right above them. Second, if you're 16
feet high and there is any breeze at all, it will
carry your scent away from your stand and confuse the
deer about your exact location. If you're on the
ground, your scent will be easier to detect. Third,
your eyes are about 20 feet high, giving you the
opportunity to see farther away. I usually see deer
before they are in range for a shot. These are the 3
great advantages of the tree stand. You can
successfully hunt from the ground by using a blind,
camouflage or thick brush as cover, but your chances
of the deer detecting you go up. My favorite tree to
put a stand in is a hemlock tree. Through the years
I've noticed deer generally look up until they see
tree branches and they don't continue to look higher.
The thick needles of a hemlock tree provide excellent
cover.
The location where you choose to set up a stand is important. Most experienced hunters prefer to set up near "funnels." A funnel is an area where deer travel a lot. It may be a trail on the edge of a thick growth of brush, or a swamp, or simply where several deer trails come together. I look for deer trails and try to set up where 2 or more trails intersect. I prefer to be about 18 yards from the trail. You also want to be down wind from the trail. The dominant winds in my area are from the west, so I try to set up to the east of a trail. I prefer to have multiple trees close together with a lot of branches just above the stand. If the deer looks up at you, its good to have a lot of cover so you're not silhouetted against the sky. Try to use a tree that is wider than your body so you won't stand out as much. Pine or hemlock trees provide excellent cover because they keep their needles all year long. If a good cover tree is not close to a deer trail, it may be better than a poor cover tree near a trail. Using calls and scents can draw a deer to your location.
The height of your stand is important. If you're too low, the deer have a better chance to see and smell you. If you're too high, the angle is steeper and a double lung target is more difficult. I prefer to have my stand at 16 feet. My bow is then at 20 feet. If the deer is at least 12 yards away, there will be a sufficient angle to hit both lungs. If there is really good cover, you might consider lowering your stand.
Here in Western New York, there are a lot of leaves on the trees at the start of bow season and half way through the season, most of the leaves are off the trees. Be cautious about having a lot of leaves on trees for cover because that might change quickly. Again, hemlock or pine trees are great to set up in or next to. They keep their needles year round. The smell of the hemlock tree may help to cover your smell. I prefer to be near a food source like apple or oak trees. It's usually not possible to get a location with all the above, but the more you do right, the better are your chances.
Ladder Type Stand - The ladder and top are all Hang-on type stand with separate ladder Another hang-on type with separate ladder.
one piece. This particular stand has poor cover.
The location where you choose to set up a stand is important. Most experienced hunters prefer to set up near "funnels." A funnel is an area where deer travel a lot. It may be a trail on the edge of a thick growth of brush, or a swamp, or simply where several deer trails come together. I look for deer trails and try to set up where 2 or more trails intersect. I prefer to be about 18 yards from the trail. You also want to be down wind from the trail. The dominant winds in my area are from the west, so I try to set up to the east of a trail. I prefer to have multiple trees close together with a lot of branches just above the stand. If the deer looks up at you, its good to have a lot of cover so you're not silhouetted against the sky. Try to use a tree that is wider than your body so you won't stand out as much. Pine or hemlock trees provide excellent cover because they keep their needles all year long. If a good cover tree is not close to a deer trail, it may be better than a poor cover tree near a trail. Using calls and scents can draw a deer to your location.
The height of your stand is important. If you're too low, the deer have a better chance to see and smell you. If you're too high, the angle is steeper and a double lung target is more difficult. I prefer to have my stand at 16 feet. My bow is then at 20 feet. If the deer is at least 12 yards away, there will be a sufficient angle to hit both lungs. If there is really good cover, you might consider lowering your stand.
Here in Western New York, there are a lot of leaves on the trees at the start of bow season and half way through the season, most of the leaves are off the trees. Be cautious about having a lot of leaves on trees for cover because that might change quickly. Again, hemlock or pine trees are great to set up in or next to. They keep their needles year round. The smell of the hemlock tree may help to cover your smell. I prefer to be near a food source like apple or oak trees. It's usually not possible to get a location with all the above, but the more you do right, the better are your chances.
Ladder Type Stand - The ladder and top are all Hang-on type stand with separate ladder Another hang-on type with separate ladder.
one piece. This particular stand has poor cover.
Set Up Your
Stand
Before
you set up your stand, read the instructions. Many
hunters have been injured setting up and using
their stands. If possible, have a friend help.
Always tell someone where your going and when you
should be back from setting up a stand. Bring your
cell phone if you have cell coverage.
I prefer using the "hang-on" type stands with a separate ladder. Of all the available stands, these seem to blend in better with the surroundings. I leave these in the woods for the whole season. It's nice to have everything set up so you can quietly and quickly get in your stand. If you can't leave your stand in the woods, the climbing stands work well on trees with no limbs. The "hang on" type stands work well for trees that have a few limbs that still allow the separate ladder to be used. I use an additional ratchet strap to safely secure the stand. The strap also keeps the stand quiet by holding it tight to the tree. The ladder type stand is also a favorite. Be very cautious setting up a ladder stand. Until it is secured properly to the tree and braced in the middle of the ladder, the ladder could buckle causing you to fall. Always use some kind of a safety harness. Use a pull rope to pull up your bow - never carry it up the ladder.
A good practice is to put 1 or 2 markers out at the distance where your bow is dead-on. I put markers out at 18-20 yards. This helps to judge distance. If you're up in that tree stand and see a deer, you need to know the distance, especially if the deer's beyond where your first sight pin will put the arrow. If you sighted in your bow for 18 yards, it should be dead on at 20 yards since your shooting down. At distances shorter than that, your arrow should be no more that 1" high.
I prefer using the "hang-on" type stands with a separate ladder. Of all the available stands, these seem to blend in better with the surroundings. I leave these in the woods for the whole season. It's nice to have everything set up so you can quietly and quickly get in your stand. If you can't leave your stand in the woods, the climbing stands work well on trees with no limbs. The "hang on" type stands work well for trees that have a few limbs that still allow the separate ladder to be used. I use an additional ratchet strap to safely secure the stand. The strap also keeps the stand quiet by holding it tight to the tree. The ladder type stand is also a favorite. Be very cautious setting up a ladder stand. Until it is secured properly to the tree and braced in the middle of the ladder, the ladder could buckle causing you to fall. Always use some kind of a safety harness. Use a pull rope to pull up your bow - never carry it up the ladder.
A good practice is to put 1 or 2 markers out at the distance where your bow is dead-on. I put markers out at 18-20 yards. This helps to judge distance. If you're up in that tree stand and see a deer, you need to know the distance, especially if the deer's beyond where your first sight pin will put the arrow. If you sighted in your bow for 18 yards, it should be dead on at 20 yards since your shooting down. At distances shorter than that, your arrow should be no more that 1" high.
Be Prepared
Get the equipment you'll need to hunt and
harvest a deer. Think ahead about what you
will do if you get a deer. Do you need a rope
to pull the deer, a good field dressing knife,
possibly rubber gloves, paper towels. Bring a
snack and water in case you're out for a
while...? I carry a small camouflage utility
bag and leave it at the base of the tree when
I hunt. In the bag, I have a knife, 3
flashlights, paper towels, clip on trail
markers, 3 deer calls, a small digital camera
and some other odds and ends. Dragging a deer
very far can be exhausting. Hopefully you'll
have a friend nearby you can contact with a
cell phone or radio but if not, they have
"deer carts," or an ATV is always great. Dress
properly. If you're too cold, you'll need to
move around a lot to keep warm, and if too
warm, you'll be uncomfortable and may need to
remove clothes.
When to Hunt
Hunting experts spend less time in the
woods and see more deer than the rest of
us. I remember seeing several groups of
deer on certain days and seeing nothing
for several days in a row. I've concluded
that some days are better than others and
it's not all random. The following
information may help but shouldn't be
taken as gospel. Deer can get up and walk
around whenever they feel like it.
In general, the first 3 hours of sunlight and last 1 hour of the day have the most deer activity. If I see no deer in the morning and the conditions are good, they may be out in early afternoon. During the rut, some information indicates the middle of the day is good. Personally, I have not found this to be true but some areas or conditions are different. Deer don't like heavy winds. If it's really windy and you have other things to do, you might want to save the hunting for another day. There seems to be more activity a few days before a full moon. Deer don't mind a light rain but bed down in heavy rain. They seem very active just before a heavy snow and are nowhere to be found right after a heavy snow. Deer movement seems to increase when the barometric pressure is changing and movement seems to slow when there is no pressure change. My personal experience is that they move more when the pressure moves from low to high or stays high. In Western New York, if we get heavy snow for 2 days then it warms up with the sun coming out, the deer seem to be everywhere. Bigger bucks seem to move more in temperatures of 45 degrees or lower. The big deer will seldom be seen on warmer days. This may be because they get too hot roaming around. Remember, no one tells deer these things so you could still see deer anytime. Also, during the rut, bucks have one thing on their minds - does. During the chase and mating time, the usually cautious buck will be seen all hours of the day. Many big ones are taken in the middle of the day.
Through the years, I have noticed I see larger bucks the first few times I hunt, then the sightings become less and less. I have concluded: the more you hunt a specific area, the less likely you are to see the more mature deer. Older bucks and does have a superior sense of smell and have learned to survive. Once a mature deer smells your presence or sees you in an area, it's likely to avoid that area. It may take weeks for that deer to return. In short, if you want to score a bigger deer, try to stay away until there is a lot of activity like the "seeking - chasing season". The first time you go out to hunt, be totally ready to shoot a deer. Your chances generally go down after that.
Bucks rub their antlers on trees. This activity starts before archery season but Here is a scrape. Deer dig circular spots on the ground and urinate on them. One
seems most intense in early November when bucks are "seeking" doe. deer starts a scrape and others continue. Deer then check the scrape day to day
to detect other deer. Deer will also lick a nearby branch to further communicate.
Understanding the rut can help archery hunters. The rut is basically the deer mating season. Deer hormones are at maximum during this time of year. Bucks begin leaving their bachelor groups and become loners. They start "scrapes" and "rubs" and become aggressive. Does go into heat. This behavior is caused by the shortening of daylight hours. Based on information from author, hunter and deer expert, Charles Alsheimer, there are 3 phases to the rut. Seeking, chasing and mating. Many deer are seen during the seeking and chasing phase of the rut. In the Upstate New York area, the beginning of the seeking phase is 3 - 4 days before and after the 2nd full moon after the autumnal equinox. (Wow- we're getting scientific now!) The seeking phase lasts 3 - 4 days after this full moon at which time the chasing phase starts and lasts another 3-4 days. After that, the breeding phase starts. These phases start earlier in northern and later in southern locations. Understanding the rut may allow you to take advantage of the deer behavior. Since bucks are aggressive, the rattle call can be effective. Deer think 2 bucks are in a fight and may want to see it. This attracts bucks mostly, but does may also want to look on. Some hunters start their own scrape and witness deer visiting it. Deer sightings go down during the breeding phase. These days are approximate, and, once again, no one gives the deer this information. I have personally seen an increase of daytime deer activity starting 3 - 4 days before a full moon. My experience is that in Western New York, the actual intense seeking / chasing phase where you see a lot of bucks only lasts 5 or so days. This intense phase usually starts the last day or so of October. If you can arrange your hunting time, this is a great time to see action. I usually see the most deer right about 1 1/2 hours after sunrise. Dusk is also a great time for movement. Remember, all of the deer activity may be affected by weather or other conditions.
In general, the first 3 hours of sunlight and last 1 hour of the day have the most deer activity. If I see no deer in the morning and the conditions are good, they may be out in early afternoon. During the rut, some information indicates the middle of the day is good. Personally, I have not found this to be true but some areas or conditions are different. Deer don't like heavy winds. If it's really windy and you have other things to do, you might want to save the hunting for another day. There seems to be more activity a few days before a full moon. Deer don't mind a light rain but bed down in heavy rain. They seem very active just before a heavy snow and are nowhere to be found right after a heavy snow. Deer movement seems to increase when the barometric pressure is changing and movement seems to slow when there is no pressure change. My personal experience is that they move more when the pressure moves from low to high or stays high. In Western New York, if we get heavy snow for 2 days then it warms up with the sun coming out, the deer seem to be everywhere. Bigger bucks seem to move more in temperatures of 45 degrees or lower. The big deer will seldom be seen on warmer days. This may be because they get too hot roaming around. Remember, no one tells deer these things so you could still see deer anytime. Also, during the rut, bucks have one thing on their minds - does. During the chase and mating time, the usually cautious buck will be seen all hours of the day. Many big ones are taken in the middle of the day.
Through the years, I have noticed I see larger bucks the first few times I hunt, then the sightings become less and less. I have concluded: the more you hunt a specific area, the less likely you are to see the more mature deer. Older bucks and does have a superior sense of smell and have learned to survive. Once a mature deer smells your presence or sees you in an area, it's likely to avoid that area. It may take weeks for that deer to return. In short, if you want to score a bigger deer, try to stay away until there is a lot of activity like the "seeking - chasing season". The first time you go out to hunt, be totally ready to shoot a deer. Your chances generally go down after that.
The
Rut
Bucks rub their antlers on trees. This activity starts before archery season but Here is a scrape. Deer dig circular spots on the ground and urinate on them. One
seems most intense in early November when bucks are "seeking" doe. deer starts a scrape and others continue. Deer then check the scrape day to day
to detect other deer. Deer will also lick a nearby branch to further communicate.
Understanding the rut can help archery hunters. The rut is basically the deer mating season. Deer hormones are at maximum during this time of year. Bucks begin leaving their bachelor groups and become loners. They start "scrapes" and "rubs" and become aggressive. Does go into heat. This behavior is caused by the shortening of daylight hours. Based on information from author, hunter and deer expert, Charles Alsheimer, there are 3 phases to the rut. Seeking, chasing and mating. Many deer are seen during the seeking and chasing phase of the rut. In the Upstate New York area, the beginning of the seeking phase is 3 - 4 days before and after the 2nd full moon after the autumnal equinox. (Wow- we're getting scientific now!) The seeking phase lasts 3 - 4 days after this full moon at which time the chasing phase starts and lasts another 3-4 days. After that, the breeding phase starts. These phases start earlier in northern and later in southern locations. Understanding the rut may allow you to take advantage of the deer behavior. Since bucks are aggressive, the rattle call can be effective. Deer think 2 bucks are in a fight and may want to see it. This attracts bucks mostly, but does may also want to look on. Some hunters start their own scrape and witness deer visiting it. Deer sightings go down during the breeding phase. These days are approximate, and, once again, no one gives the deer this information. I have personally seen an increase of daytime deer activity starting 3 - 4 days before a full moon. My experience is that in Western New York, the actual intense seeking / chasing phase where you see a lot of bucks only lasts 5 or so days. This intense phase usually starts the last day or so of October. If you can arrange your hunting time, this is a great time to see action. I usually see the most deer right about 1 1/2 hours after sunrise. Dusk is also a great time for movement. Remember, all of the deer activity may be affected by weather or other conditions.
Attract
Deer to Your Stand
This is one of the most difficult
and frustrating parts of hunting.
Because you need to get the deer
within 20 or so yards of your stand,
you need to play some tricks on the
deer to get it to come near. On given
days, there will be no possible way to
see deer or get them to move
around. I see deer only about
half the times I hunt. I get deer to
walk into shooting range only once
every 4 - 5 days of hunting. This
varies a lot. I might get the
opportunity to shoot 3 deer some days
and no opportunities for a full week.
This is just part of the sport.
The number one way I get deer close is using scent. If you drag a scent line some 50 yards on each direction from where you want to shoot it, deer could walk right on that scent line. Spraying a tree about 1-2 feet off the ground could attract a deer from a hundred yards or more. I don't use scents every time I hunt but I would think they're almost always a good idea. There are a lot of good products out there. I have used Code Blue "dominant buck," "estrous doe," and "Tinks" products with success. I tie a small rag to about 5 feet of string and put just enough scent to get the rag wet but not dripping. I drag the scent rag anywhere from 30 to 80 yards away into my shooting area. The hope is a deer will cross your scent line somewhere then follow it to your stand. This has worked for me several times. I have seen bucks approach with their nose to the ground following the scent. Doe usually do the same. Rarely, I see a doe sniff the scent and appear to get scared and run. Another way to use scents is to spray a few spots in your shooting area and a tree or two. Here, you are relying on the wind to carry the scent hundreds of yards. Deer cruising the woods can stumble on the scent and follow it to your stand. Although I prefer the dragging a scent rag method, the spray can works also. Also, very important, try to eliminate any human scent from your cloths and yourself. Use hunters scent-free soaps.
My strategy is to lay a scent trail and hope a deer will walk across it somewhere and follow it to my stand. If no deer show up after some time, I use a deer call to try to get them to come my way. As they get close, hopefully, they'll cross the scent trail and follow it. I think of it like this: calling gets the deer nearby and the scents get it to come in closer from there. Scents can make the deer sniff around long enough for you to get a shot. Besides attractant scents, there are a lot of "cover" scents on the market. For years, I never used cover scents but recently tried them. I believe some of these work. I've had success with the products called "Nose Jammer" and "Ever Calm". Nose Jammer has a strong vanilla odor and claims to overwhelm the deer so it doesn't pick up other scents. Ever Calm smells somewhat like a barn and supposedly relaxes deer. I've heard of folks putting the cleaner "Pine Sol" on their boots to cover their scent and claim it works. I might try that someday.
A deer grunt call can be effective. One or two short grunts every 30 - 60 minutes can work. If you see a deer walking away, try 1 or 2 grunts. The deer usually will appear to ignore it but they hear it just fine. A small percent of the time, the deer will try to approach you from a different direction. More calling usually won't work. If the deer has already passed close to you, let it get some 40 -50 yards away, then grunt again. Usually, they won't come back but on occasion, they will. Use your call very sparingly if you think a deer is within 50 yards. If the deer hears your call and pinpoints your location, it might approach but will not walk into shooting range until it sees what made the noise.
I also have a rattle call. The rattle call works best early in the season as well as during the seek and chase periods. It simulates the sound of antlered deer fighting each other. This seems to attract other bucks and sometimes does. I have also seen this scare does away. The big thing with using calls is not to overdo it. A little is plenty, a lot of calling will never work and will scare deer away. I sometimes do a 1 minute rattle with grunts to simulate a fight. That should be good for at least an hour. A little noise that sounds like other deer will keep a deer's interest. If you overdo it, they will think it's not authentic and go away. I think of calling deer as teasing them. Bucks believe other bucks are fighting over a doe and want to get in on the action. The longer the season goes on, the less the rattle call seems to work for me. This may be because deer realize its a hunter, especially in areas with more hunters. Another trick is to take a stick and rub and hit it on a tree. I have seen this noise attract a deer.
Later in the season, it may seem like you see less deer. Try moving to a new location. Deer may avoid areas where they have detected hunters. I like moving to more dense, thicker woods or brush.
The number one way I get deer close is using scent. If you drag a scent line some 50 yards on each direction from where you want to shoot it, deer could walk right on that scent line. Spraying a tree about 1-2 feet off the ground could attract a deer from a hundred yards or more. I don't use scents every time I hunt but I would think they're almost always a good idea. There are a lot of good products out there. I have used Code Blue "dominant buck," "estrous doe," and "Tinks" products with success. I tie a small rag to about 5 feet of string and put just enough scent to get the rag wet but not dripping. I drag the scent rag anywhere from 30 to 80 yards away into my shooting area. The hope is a deer will cross your scent line somewhere then follow it to your stand. This has worked for me several times. I have seen bucks approach with their nose to the ground following the scent. Doe usually do the same. Rarely, I see a doe sniff the scent and appear to get scared and run. Another way to use scents is to spray a few spots in your shooting area and a tree or two. Here, you are relying on the wind to carry the scent hundreds of yards. Deer cruising the woods can stumble on the scent and follow it to your stand. Although I prefer the dragging a scent rag method, the spray can works also. Also, very important, try to eliminate any human scent from your cloths and yourself. Use hunters scent-free soaps.
My strategy is to lay a scent trail and hope a deer will walk across it somewhere and follow it to my stand. If no deer show up after some time, I use a deer call to try to get them to come my way. As they get close, hopefully, they'll cross the scent trail and follow it. I think of it like this: calling gets the deer nearby and the scents get it to come in closer from there. Scents can make the deer sniff around long enough for you to get a shot. Besides attractant scents, there are a lot of "cover" scents on the market. For years, I never used cover scents but recently tried them. I believe some of these work. I've had success with the products called "Nose Jammer" and "Ever Calm". Nose Jammer has a strong vanilla odor and claims to overwhelm the deer so it doesn't pick up other scents. Ever Calm smells somewhat like a barn and supposedly relaxes deer. I've heard of folks putting the cleaner "Pine Sol" on their boots to cover their scent and claim it works. I might try that someday.
A deer grunt call can be effective. One or two short grunts every 30 - 60 minutes can work. If you see a deer walking away, try 1 or 2 grunts. The deer usually will appear to ignore it but they hear it just fine. A small percent of the time, the deer will try to approach you from a different direction. More calling usually won't work. If the deer has already passed close to you, let it get some 40 -50 yards away, then grunt again. Usually, they won't come back but on occasion, they will. Use your call very sparingly if you think a deer is within 50 yards. If the deer hears your call and pinpoints your location, it might approach but will not walk into shooting range until it sees what made the noise.
I also have a rattle call. The rattle call works best early in the season as well as during the seek and chase periods. It simulates the sound of antlered deer fighting each other. This seems to attract other bucks and sometimes does. I have also seen this scare does away. The big thing with using calls is not to overdo it. A little is plenty, a lot of calling will never work and will scare deer away. I sometimes do a 1 minute rattle with grunts to simulate a fight. That should be good for at least an hour. A little noise that sounds like other deer will keep a deer's interest. If you overdo it, they will think it's not authentic and go away. I think of calling deer as teasing them. Bucks believe other bucks are fighting over a doe and want to get in on the action. The longer the season goes on, the less the rattle call seems to work for me. This may be because deer realize its a hunter, especially in areas with more hunters. Another trick is to take a stick and rub and hit it on a tree. I have seen this noise attract a deer.
Later in the season, it may seem like you see less deer. Try moving to a new location. Deer may avoid areas where they have detected hunters. I like moving to more dense, thicker woods or brush.
Hunting
Tactics
When you see a deer, FREEZE.
Did you ever see the movie Jurassic
Park? Remember when
Dr. Alan Grant (Sam Neill) says,
"Dinosaurs can't see that good,
they only respond to movement" or
something close to that. That is
so true about deer.
Hunters need to understand the senses of the deer. Deer see mostly in black & white, not color and some don't have the best vision. More than once I've stood frozen and had bucks walk right up to me. Deer can actually see into the blue wavelengths of light. Wearing blue jeans is a bad idea. The other side of the color spectrum is red. Deer see red very poorly. This is why some hunters use a red color filter on their flashlight as they walk into the woods in darkness. I have seen deer react to a red-filtered flashlight even though they're supposed to have a hard time seeing it. They also have superior night vision. Deer can see almost 300 degrees around themselves without moving their heads.
A deer's vision isn't that good but they are great at detecting movement. Many times in the woods, I've been spotted by doe. Try not to move if you can see the deer's eye. Many of these times, the deer will look at me, then walk a step or two toward me. They then stomp a front foot. The deer isn't sure what I am and it's trying to provoke me to move. If I stay frozen, sometimes the deer will begin to relax and move on. If I make a movement, the deer will run. When I see a deer, I freeze and watch the deer. If there are several deer, you have several sets of eyes looking around so there is a greater chance your movement will be detected. Be patient and move only when the deer are looking away.
It's difficult to know when to draw your arrow. I draw when I think the shot opportunity is approaching and the deer is looking away.
They hear very well and are quick to pinpoint the direction a sound is coming from. Deer, like dogs and other animals, have a hearing range that is much better than ours at higher frequencies. If your metal tree stand lets out a "creaking" sound when you move, it might sound much louder to the deer.
From my observation, deer usually detect hunters by seeing movement or if your "up wind" they smell you. A deer's sense of smell is incredible. Mature bucks seem to be superior in the scent detection category. Tests have shown that a deer can detect the smell of an apple rolled across the ground a full 10 minutes later. They can detect human skin cells from people that have been in one area for an hour or so. Their nose is extremely sensitive. There's an old saying,"A deer might not trust its eyes and might not trust its ears but it always trusts it's nose." The smallest breeze will carry your scent hundreds of yards. If you're hunting from a stand, your scent generally is off in one direction and diluted. Deer approaching up wind don't detect you. If a smarter deer is approaching and thinks there might be any kind of a threat, it might circle down wind, then approach. I've always thought a hunters breath can be a big problem. I eat very light or not at all before hunting. I sometimes eat liquorish too. If you have to urinate, I suggest you bring a plastic bottle to use. Many hunters just go on the ground. This is a source of disagreement among hunters. Some think there is no technical difference between deer and human urine. To play all the percentages, it can't hurt to use a bottle. What's that? You have to go #2? Walk at least 100 yards away.
Deer are just plain survivors. If you see the deer coming toward you, this is your time to get ready. Generally, they're responding to your call and suspect something is in the area so they are looking all around. Move only when the deer looks away. When you see a deer approaching, estimate where it might be when it's broadside to quartering away and position yourself for that shot. If you position yourself for a head-on shot at the approaching deer, when the deer is close by, you'll have to move again for a different shot. Deer can be unpredictable so this doesn't work all the time but it has helped me on several occasions. You should be standing with the bow in your hands positioned so you won't have to move much before you draw.
Recently, a nice buck was about 20 yards away, walking broadside to my stand. The deer continued and walked past a tree that blinded him from me. I drew the bow then, and 3 yards later he stopped in a clearing. It rarely is this easy. I draw when the deer looks in another direction or gets its vision blocked to me. Occasionally, you may want to take a chance and draw if the deer is walking by your last-chance shooting lane.
Try not to shoot a moving deer. If the deer is walking, you must lead it and it's difficult to quickly calculate how much. I stop the deer if I have the presence of mind. If a deer is walking and I'm at full draw, I call out with a "maaaaaa" or some noise to stop it. I have yet to see this spook the deer away. This is big!! I've bagged most deer that I've stopped and had mis-fortunes with some moving deer. If the deer is walking, don't worry about spooking the deer by calling "maaaaa". If the deer keeps walking, I call out "maaaa" louder and sometimes need to do this 3 times. You can see this in action by watching the "stop the deer" video at the end of this section. Usually the deer will stop and listen to determine where the sound is coming from. This is your opportunity to shoot. It's also been my personal observation, when I stop the deer, they dont duck the arrow. I now have 3 videos of deer not ducking the arrow when I've stopped them. This can be very helpful! I'm guessing a noise will alert a deer causing it to freeze in an attempt to find out what made the noise. I think the deer is concentrating so much on where the noise came from and on keeping still so it doesn't get spotted that it freezes its muscles even when it hears the bow shoot. If I stop the deer, I aim right where I want to hit the deer. If the deer stops on its own, depending on how noisy your bow is, aiming an inch or so lower might be a good idea. If the deer stops on its own, you can also make a noise to freeze it. Once again, this is my personal observation supported by video. I have not heard this from any other source.
Try to keep still. If you have to move, move slowly. You'll need to move around a bit but try to keep it to a minimum. Deer see you first a lot of the time and if you're still, they ignore you. Try not to hunt in the same stand more than 2 days in a row. Because of their powerful sense of smell, deer detect hunters in the same location more than several days in a row. It's great to have several stands set up but most will have to move their stand. Moving just 30 yards helps a lot.
Be on alert all the time. It's easy to relax and even fall asleep in the woods. If you get too relaxed, keep the mindset that deer could appear any second. If you spot a small doe walking your way and don't want to shoot it, many times a larger doe or buck may be following it 20 or so yards away.
I rarely hunt more than 3 - 4 hours. My muscles start to get stiff and if I haven't seen anything, its time to take a break.
If you're not seeing any deer, it's a good idea to check the barometric pressure or other conditions and wait a day or two for things to change. If you hunt day after day and see nothing, the deer may know you're there and are avoiding you. Because deer are nocturnal, they may be visiting your stand area at night and avoid it during any light.
If the wind direction is not in your favor, keep hunting anyway. I'm surprised at how deer can detect your scent 100 yards away and then totally ignore your scent at other times. The older bucks seem the most difficult to fool but I have seen them walk up wind into my area more than once.
My personal observation is that doe are more observant and have better eyesight compared to bucks. Many doe have spotted me in tree stands while few bucks have. Mature bucks seem more cautious, stopping and patiently staring for minutes at any unknown object or noise. I wonder if the most cautious bucks might be that way because of poor eyesight.
Here is a short MP4 video that I call "Lucky Buck" After a series of grunts and rattling to simulate a buck fight, this 8-point approached my stand. He was nearby and by the time I finished my calling, he knew right where I was. He walked near, kept looking toward me, but stayed away from my stand. He was about 25 yards away cautiously looking my way for over 5 minutes before he decided to continue. I have seen bigger or more mature bucks do this several times. I had to freeze this whole time. Finally, the buck looked away so I drew. I stopped the deer when he walked into an opening some 22 yards away. (this is a good demonstration of calling "maaa" to stop a deer). The deer was quartering away perfectly. I was shaking from the adrenalin rush and from having to freeze for over 5 minutes with this big guy staring at me. I fired the arrow right over his back. This was my first miss after a 6-in-a-row streak. I can't explain the miss, but believe I held the bow awkwardly or just flinched. Lucky Buck
Here is what its like, hunting out of a tree stand. Twenty minutes after the lucky buck incident, several doe passed by. It's evident these deer are following the scent line I put down earlier. I sprayed scent all over the tree that the doe is sniffing at the video beginning. I drew on the doe at the video start and within seconds, the doe presented an easy broadside shot at 12 yards. With the larger buck on my mind, I let the doe walk away. The animal rights people should love this one. Lucky Doe
Here is a video of a 4 point that walks into the down wind path of an unfortunate hunter. Notice the deer stop, then use its nose. It quickly locates the hunter. In this case, the hunter still had a good broadside shot because he didn't panic. The opportunity passes quickly when the deer sees movement as the hunter draws the bow. up wind hunter
Here is another video of a deer walking and the hunter using the "maaaa" tactic to stop the deer. The archer makes a perfect double lung hit. Stop the deer
Hunters need to understand the senses of the deer. Deer see mostly in black & white, not color and some don't have the best vision. More than once I've stood frozen and had bucks walk right up to me. Deer can actually see into the blue wavelengths of light. Wearing blue jeans is a bad idea. The other side of the color spectrum is red. Deer see red very poorly. This is why some hunters use a red color filter on their flashlight as they walk into the woods in darkness. I have seen deer react to a red-filtered flashlight even though they're supposed to have a hard time seeing it. They also have superior night vision. Deer can see almost 300 degrees around themselves without moving their heads.
A deer's vision isn't that good but they are great at detecting movement. Many times in the woods, I've been spotted by doe. Try not to move if you can see the deer's eye. Many of these times, the deer will look at me, then walk a step or two toward me. They then stomp a front foot. The deer isn't sure what I am and it's trying to provoke me to move. If I stay frozen, sometimes the deer will begin to relax and move on. If I make a movement, the deer will run. When I see a deer, I freeze and watch the deer. If there are several deer, you have several sets of eyes looking around so there is a greater chance your movement will be detected. Be patient and move only when the deer are looking away.
It's difficult to know when to draw your arrow. I draw when I think the shot opportunity is approaching and the deer is looking away.
They hear very well and are quick to pinpoint the direction a sound is coming from. Deer, like dogs and other animals, have a hearing range that is much better than ours at higher frequencies. If your metal tree stand lets out a "creaking" sound when you move, it might sound much louder to the deer.
From my observation, deer usually detect hunters by seeing movement or if your "up wind" they smell you. A deer's sense of smell is incredible. Mature bucks seem to be superior in the scent detection category. Tests have shown that a deer can detect the smell of an apple rolled across the ground a full 10 minutes later. They can detect human skin cells from people that have been in one area for an hour or so. Their nose is extremely sensitive. There's an old saying,"A deer might not trust its eyes and might not trust its ears but it always trusts it's nose." The smallest breeze will carry your scent hundreds of yards. If you're hunting from a stand, your scent generally is off in one direction and diluted. Deer approaching up wind don't detect you. If a smarter deer is approaching and thinks there might be any kind of a threat, it might circle down wind, then approach. I've always thought a hunters breath can be a big problem. I eat very light or not at all before hunting. I sometimes eat liquorish too. If you have to urinate, I suggest you bring a plastic bottle to use. Many hunters just go on the ground. This is a source of disagreement among hunters. Some think there is no technical difference between deer and human urine. To play all the percentages, it can't hurt to use a bottle. What's that? You have to go #2? Walk at least 100 yards away.
Deer are just plain survivors. If you see the deer coming toward you, this is your time to get ready. Generally, they're responding to your call and suspect something is in the area so they are looking all around. Move only when the deer looks away. When you see a deer approaching, estimate where it might be when it's broadside to quartering away and position yourself for that shot. If you position yourself for a head-on shot at the approaching deer, when the deer is close by, you'll have to move again for a different shot. Deer can be unpredictable so this doesn't work all the time but it has helped me on several occasions. You should be standing with the bow in your hands positioned so you won't have to move much before you draw.
Recently, a nice buck was about 20 yards away, walking broadside to my stand. The deer continued and walked past a tree that blinded him from me. I drew the bow then, and 3 yards later he stopped in a clearing. It rarely is this easy. I draw when the deer looks in another direction or gets its vision blocked to me. Occasionally, you may want to take a chance and draw if the deer is walking by your last-chance shooting lane.
Try not to shoot a moving deer. If the deer is walking, you must lead it and it's difficult to quickly calculate how much. I stop the deer if I have the presence of mind. If a deer is walking and I'm at full draw, I call out with a "maaaaaa" or some noise to stop it. I have yet to see this spook the deer away. This is big!! I've bagged most deer that I've stopped and had mis-fortunes with some moving deer. If the deer is walking, don't worry about spooking the deer by calling "maaaaa". If the deer keeps walking, I call out "maaaa" louder and sometimes need to do this 3 times. You can see this in action by watching the "stop the deer" video at the end of this section. Usually the deer will stop and listen to determine where the sound is coming from. This is your opportunity to shoot. It's also been my personal observation, when I stop the deer, they dont duck the arrow. I now have 3 videos of deer not ducking the arrow when I've stopped them. This can be very helpful! I'm guessing a noise will alert a deer causing it to freeze in an attempt to find out what made the noise. I think the deer is concentrating so much on where the noise came from and on keeping still so it doesn't get spotted that it freezes its muscles even when it hears the bow shoot. If I stop the deer, I aim right where I want to hit the deer. If the deer stops on its own, depending on how noisy your bow is, aiming an inch or so lower might be a good idea. If the deer stops on its own, you can also make a noise to freeze it. Once again, this is my personal observation supported by video. I have not heard this from any other source.
Try to keep still. If you have to move, move slowly. You'll need to move around a bit but try to keep it to a minimum. Deer see you first a lot of the time and if you're still, they ignore you. Try not to hunt in the same stand more than 2 days in a row. Because of their powerful sense of smell, deer detect hunters in the same location more than several days in a row. It's great to have several stands set up but most will have to move their stand. Moving just 30 yards helps a lot.
Be on alert all the time. It's easy to relax and even fall asleep in the woods. If you get too relaxed, keep the mindset that deer could appear any second. If you spot a small doe walking your way and don't want to shoot it, many times a larger doe or buck may be following it 20 or so yards away.
I rarely hunt more than 3 - 4 hours. My muscles start to get stiff and if I haven't seen anything, its time to take a break.
If you're not seeing any deer, it's a good idea to check the barometric pressure or other conditions and wait a day or two for things to change. If you hunt day after day and see nothing, the deer may know you're there and are avoiding you. Because deer are nocturnal, they may be visiting your stand area at night and avoid it during any light.
If the wind direction is not in your favor, keep hunting anyway. I'm surprised at how deer can detect your scent 100 yards away and then totally ignore your scent at other times. The older bucks seem the most difficult to fool but I have seen them walk up wind into my area more than once.
My personal observation is that doe are more observant and have better eyesight compared to bucks. Many doe have spotted me in tree stands while few bucks have. Mature bucks seem more cautious, stopping and patiently staring for minutes at any unknown object or noise. I wonder if the most cautious bucks might be that way because of poor eyesight.
Here is a short MP4 video that I call "Lucky Buck" After a series of grunts and rattling to simulate a buck fight, this 8-point approached my stand. He was nearby and by the time I finished my calling, he knew right where I was. He walked near, kept looking toward me, but stayed away from my stand. He was about 25 yards away cautiously looking my way for over 5 minutes before he decided to continue. I have seen bigger or more mature bucks do this several times. I had to freeze this whole time. Finally, the buck looked away so I drew. I stopped the deer when he walked into an opening some 22 yards away. (this is a good demonstration of calling "maaa" to stop a deer). The deer was quartering away perfectly. I was shaking from the adrenalin rush and from having to freeze for over 5 minutes with this big guy staring at me. I fired the arrow right over his back. This was my first miss after a 6-in-a-row streak. I can't explain the miss, but believe I held the bow awkwardly or just flinched. Lucky Buck
Here is what its like, hunting out of a tree stand. Twenty minutes after the lucky buck incident, several doe passed by. It's evident these deer are following the scent line I put down earlier. I sprayed scent all over the tree that the doe is sniffing at the video beginning. I drew on the doe at the video start and within seconds, the doe presented an easy broadside shot at 12 yards. With the larger buck on my mind, I let the doe walk away. The animal rights people should love this one. Lucky Doe
Here is a video of a 4 point that walks into the down wind path of an unfortunate hunter. Notice the deer stop, then use its nose. It quickly locates the hunter. In this case, the hunter still had a good broadside shot because he didn't panic. The opportunity passes quickly when the deer sees movement as the hunter draws the bow. up wind hunter
Here is another video of a deer walking and the hunter using the "maaaa" tactic to stop the deer. The archer makes a perfect double lung hit. Stop the deer
Be Ready
It's a cool brisk morning. The sun
has just come up and you are
starting to hear some birds
chirping. You let out a short
grunt from your call, then another
5 seconds later. You sit on that
nice stand cushion with your bow
hung up on the tree. You're
thinking, "If I see a deer, I'll
have time to stand up and get my
bow in hand." You hear a twig snap
some 40 yards away but ignore it.
Suddenly, out of the corner of
your eye, you see an 8-point 25
yards away looking your way and
walking toward you. You can't move
because it will see you. Your
heart is pounding. Now, its
broadside, 15 yards away. Just a
few more steps and its eyes won't
catch you. You now stand up and
get your bow and quickly go to
full draw. The deer is now 25
yards away with brush in the way.
You never get a shot. You grab
your grunt call and let out 2
grunts but the deer is now 40
yards away and seems to ignore
you. You just screwed up and won't
get a second chance.
Deer seem to appear out of nowhere without warning. They don't see in color or have the best eyesight, but can pick up movement easily. They have excellent night or low-light vision. When you hunt, be ready for an episode like this. It happens all the time. Try to stand with your bow in hand as much as possible. Use a bow holster so your arms will not be supporting the weight.
Use your eyes to constantly scan your hunting area. This is your chance to see the deer before it sees you. I try to move only my head and eyes. You will need to stretch out and move around on occasion. Take a good look around before you do this. Use your ears to listen for deer. In the early morning, right as the sun comes up, I usually start to hear birds then leaves rustling from squirrels. Squirrels can sound like deer moving through the woods. When deer walk, they sound a lot like people walking. Deer usually make the more rhythmic sound of foot steps. As deer walk, they usually step on a twig or two and you hear the twig snap. Another clue is that sometimes deer plow right through thick areas and you hear branches breaking. As deer chew, you can hear nut shells grinding and breaking. A deer grunt sounds just like most grunt deer calls. The deeper the sound, the bigger the deer. A louder deeper grunt is almost always a bigger buck. Use these sounds to quickly get ready for a shot. Don't make the mistake of waiting to see the deer first. Get up and get the bow into your hands. Always "be ready" right after using a grunt or rattle call, or hearing a twig snap.
If a deer is approaching you and you think it might see you if you move, you're probably right. Freeze and keep your eyes on the deer. As soon as the deer looks the other way, position yourself for the shot. Most deer will look right at you and not react, but if they see any movement, they react fast.
Poor shot opportunity. Large Shoulder bone Excellent quartering away opportunity Excellent broadside opportunity
is blocking lungs
The lungs are pink. If the deer is broadside, Put your
arrow just above the front leg (green dot). If the deer is
quartering away, aim back of leg (yellow dot) and keep
away from the spine and the heavy shoulder bone.
Shot
Placement
Deer seem to appear out of nowhere without warning. They don't see in color or have the best eyesight, but can pick up movement easily. They have excellent night or low-light vision. When you hunt, be ready for an episode like this. It happens all the time. Try to stand with your bow in hand as much as possible. Use a bow holster so your arms will not be supporting the weight.
Use your eyes to constantly scan your hunting area. This is your chance to see the deer before it sees you. I try to move only my head and eyes. You will need to stretch out and move around on occasion. Take a good look around before you do this. Use your ears to listen for deer. In the early morning, right as the sun comes up, I usually start to hear birds then leaves rustling from squirrels. Squirrels can sound like deer moving through the woods. When deer walk, they sound a lot like people walking. Deer usually make the more rhythmic sound of foot steps. As deer walk, they usually step on a twig or two and you hear the twig snap. Another clue is that sometimes deer plow right through thick areas and you hear branches breaking. As deer chew, you can hear nut shells grinding and breaking. A deer grunt sounds just like most grunt deer calls. The deeper the sound, the bigger the deer. A louder deeper grunt is almost always a bigger buck. Use these sounds to quickly get ready for a shot. Don't make the mistake of waiting to see the deer first. Get up and get the bow into your hands. Always "be ready" right after using a grunt or rattle call, or hearing a twig snap.
If a deer is approaching you and you think it might see you if you move, you're probably right. Freeze and keep your eyes on the deer. As soon as the deer looks the other way, position yourself for the shot. Most deer will look right at you and not react, but if they see any movement, they react fast.
Poor shot opportunity. Large Shoulder bone Excellent quartering away opportunity Excellent broadside opportunity
is blocking lungs
The lungs are pink. If the deer is broadside, Put your
arrow just above the front leg (green dot). If the deer is
quartering away, aim back of leg (yellow dot) and keep
away from the spine and the heavy shoulder bone.
This is extremely important.
Of all the information here,
the shot placement is the part
I've had the most trouble
with. If you make a mistake
anywhere, don't make it here.
Unlike a shotgun, the arrow
must penetrate major blood
vessels or both lungs to bring
a deer down quickly. Gut shots
only wound the deer and it
could go miles or suffer for
days and never be found.
Shots in the spine could bring
the deer down but not
guaranteed. Shots in the front
shoulder bone generally will
not penetrate enough.
The double lung shot behind the shoulder is preferred. The lungs are larger than the heart and a double lung hit will most always leave a good blood trail and bring the deer down within seconds. You need to get a clear understanding of where the deer's lungs are. The only shot I take is the broadside or quartering away, period! The bone structure and heart/lung location of the deer make that shot the easiest and highest percentage. If you take a lower percentage shot at a deer, you'll generally be sorry. If you're lucky, you'll miss. Worse, you'll wound the deer and spend hopeless hours trying to find it. Then, you will have this ugly memory.
After hunting several days with no luck, you need to fight the urge to rush a poor shot at the first opportunity you get. Your heart will be pounding, you'll be anxious. Instinctively you'll want to rush the shot. BE PATIENT! No shot at all is better than a bad shot. Only shoot if the shot is a high-percentage one. When a deer comes into range, if its broadside, I aim about 1" low of center, right in line vertically with the back of the front leg. If the deer doesn't duck, the arrow will go through both lungs. If it ducks a few inches, it should still get both lungs. Most poor shots hit the deer high. The preferred shot is the quartering away because the angle should get the arrow through the front chest cavity. You can move the shot back from the front leg 1 - 2" for that shot. You must get the arrow to go through the front - chest cavity or rib cage of the deer.
Know your distance. For shots up to 18 yards, you should be fine. If you take a shot 25 yards away, your bow sighted in for 16-18 yards will be about 4- 6" low. I recommend you use marking tape (or anything easily seen) to mark 18 yards (or whatever your top pin is sighted in for) in your shooting lanes. You could even use a different color to mark 25 yards. As you draw to shoot, note the distance, use the proper pin.
Deer ducking the arrow is a subject of debate. When you shoot a bow, the sound wave travels to the deer before the arrow hits. The uncontrollable reflex reaction to the sound can cause a deer to drop or duck. As outlined earlier, there are several factors that could make the deer duck. I know from video that sometimes deer duck the arrow and are some 3" lower when the arrow hits. I also know that sometimes deer don't duck at all or until the arrow is hitting it. There are reasons for this. A deer is more apt to duck when: you have a louder bow, a higher draw weight (70 pound draw will be louder than a 50 pound draw weight bow), you are closer and you take the deer by surprise. A deer is less apt to duck when: you are more than 20 yards away, you stop the deer by making a noise and you have a quiet bow with lower draw weight. My recent strategy is to stop every walking deer by making a noise and with my fairly quiet bow, I aim right where I want to hit (middle of the rib cage in line with the front leg- on green dot in picture). Even if I don't stop the deer, I still aim where I want to hit. Generally, for me, deer don't seem to duck any substantial amount. As already outlined, most modern compound bows are the parallel limb type that are quieter than the older type. In short, if you have a modern parallel limb bow with "silencers" I would aim where I want to hit or maybe 1" lower. After years of hunting and getting used to your bow, you will take notice if you are hitting high or not.
I recently measured the distance from the top of the deer above the front leg to the bottom of the backbone (spine bones). On a 140 pound deer, this measured 4.5". You want to keep your arrow below the backbone. Unless you get lucky and hit in between backbone joints, the arrow may not penetrate the thick spine bones. Also, the lungs are below the spine.
A deer at 16-20 yards will look larger and easier to hit than your practice target. Remember the top 4-5" of the deer is a bad place to hit. With all the excitement and your heart pounding, there is a tendency to take a quick shot because the deer looks so big and easy to hit. Take enough time to be accurate. Be sure to move nothing but your index finger (or thumb) to fire the release. If you jerk or flinch, the arrow will be pulled off target more than you think. The deer looks big but remember, you still need to hit the smaller target of the heart/lungs. When you see the deer, picture the lungs and suddenly the target becomes much smaller. Head on chest shots, head, neck, directly above the deer shooting straight down are all poor-percentage shots.
The double lung shot behind the shoulder is preferred. The lungs are larger than the heart and a double lung hit will most always leave a good blood trail and bring the deer down within seconds. You need to get a clear understanding of where the deer's lungs are. The only shot I take is the broadside or quartering away, period! The bone structure and heart/lung location of the deer make that shot the easiest and highest percentage. If you take a lower percentage shot at a deer, you'll generally be sorry. If you're lucky, you'll miss. Worse, you'll wound the deer and spend hopeless hours trying to find it. Then, you will have this ugly memory.
After hunting several days with no luck, you need to fight the urge to rush a poor shot at the first opportunity you get. Your heart will be pounding, you'll be anxious. Instinctively you'll want to rush the shot. BE PATIENT! No shot at all is better than a bad shot. Only shoot if the shot is a high-percentage one. When a deer comes into range, if its broadside, I aim about 1" low of center, right in line vertically with the back of the front leg. If the deer doesn't duck, the arrow will go through both lungs. If it ducks a few inches, it should still get both lungs. Most poor shots hit the deer high. The preferred shot is the quartering away because the angle should get the arrow through the front chest cavity. You can move the shot back from the front leg 1 - 2" for that shot. You must get the arrow to go through the front - chest cavity or rib cage of the deer.
Know your distance. For shots up to 18 yards, you should be fine. If you take a shot 25 yards away, your bow sighted in for 16-18 yards will be about 4- 6" low. I recommend you use marking tape (or anything easily seen) to mark 18 yards (or whatever your top pin is sighted in for) in your shooting lanes. You could even use a different color to mark 25 yards. As you draw to shoot, note the distance, use the proper pin.
Deer ducking the arrow is a subject of debate. When you shoot a bow, the sound wave travels to the deer before the arrow hits. The uncontrollable reflex reaction to the sound can cause a deer to drop or duck. As outlined earlier, there are several factors that could make the deer duck. I know from video that sometimes deer duck the arrow and are some 3" lower when the arrow hits. I also know that sometimes deer don't duck at all or until the arrow is hitting it. There are reasons for this. A deer is more apt to duck when: you have a louder bow, a higher draw weight (70 pound draw will be louder than a 50 pound draw weight bow), you are closer and you take the deer by surprise. A deer is less apt to duck when: you are more than 20 yards away, you stop the deer by making a noise and you have a quiet bow with lower draw weight. My recent strategy is to stop every walking deer by making a noise and with my fairly quiet bow, I aim right where I want to hit (middle of the rib cage in line with the front leg- on green dot in picture). Even if I don't stop the deer, I still aim where I want to hit. Generally, for me, deer don't seem to duck any substantial amount. As already outlined, most modern compound bows are the parallel limb type that are quieter than the older type. In short, if you have a modern parallel limb bow with "silencers" I would aim where I want to hit or maybe 1" lower. After years of hunting and getting used to your bow, you will take notice if you are hitting high or not.
I recently measured the distance from the top of the deer above the front leg to the bottom of the backbone (spine bones). On a 140 pound deer, this measured 4.5". You want to keep your arrow below the backbone. Unless you get lucky and hit in between backbone joints, the arrow may not penetrate the thick spine bones. Also, the lungs are below the spine.
A deer at 16-20 yards will look larger and easier to hit than your practice target. Remember the top 4-5" of the deer is a bad place to hit. With all the excitement and your heart pounding, there is a tendency to take a quick shot because the deer looks so big and easy to hit. Take enough time to be accurate. Be sure to move nothing but your index finger (or thumb) to fire the release. If you jerk or flinch, the arrow will be pulled off target more than you think. The deer looks big but remember, you still need to hit the smaller target of the heart/lungs. When you see the deer, picture the lungs and suddenly the target becomes much smaller. Head on chest shots, head, neck, directly above the deer shooting straight down are all poor-percentage shots.
After
the Shot
After you release the
arrow, hold your position
for a full second. This is
known as "following
through" and will get you
into a good habit of not
flinching. Watch the deer.
Most deer will
run out of sight and look
like nothing is wrong even
know they sustained a
lethal hit. Because
they
don't always leave a blood
trail, you need to watch
the deer as far as
possible. When it goes out
of sight, mark the last
spot you saw it and the
direction it was going.
Listen! If you made a good
double lung hit, the deer
will fall (crash) and make
some noise. You will hear
a distinct "crash" as the
deer falls down. If you
hear this, it's a great
sign that the deer is
down. Wait 15 minutes. If
I hear no "crash" and the
deer looked to be running
hard, I may wait 30
minutes or more.
This will allow some time
for the deer to bleed out
or fully terminate. After
your 15-30 minute wait,
get out of your stand and
look for the arrow. I
usually leave the arrow in
the ground until I find
the deer. If you don't
find the deer, you can go
back to the arrow and
possibly get some evidence
on where the deer was hit.
From here, I follow the
blood trail or go to the
last place I saw the deer
and start there.
If your deer went very far and you are out of daylight, you'll need a flashlight to follow a blood trail. The brighter the flashlight, the better. A propane lantern is excellent. Don't waste your money on any special blood illuminating lights. My experience is they are a gimmick and don't work. You generally see drops of blood every 5 feet or so. Follow the blood trail as far as possible.
With a good double lung hit, deer will usually drop within 100 yards but I have had them go much farther and drop. I personally had a deer with a double lung hit go 400 yards before it dropped. Sometimes the blood trail will be more of a light spray and difficult to see. Other times, the blood trail will run out after 80 or so yards. Some blood trails will be light because deer is bleeding internally.
If the blood trail stops, mark the spot with something then continue searching in the direction it was going in a zig zag pattern. If you find more blood, mark it with something. If you run out of blood and have gone over 100 yards, the job becomes difficult but don't give up. Try your best to look a several hundred yard radius around the last known place the deer was. Look for any clues like hoof marks or a piece of a broken arrow. Go back and examine the arrow. Does it smell like intestines? If so, you may have hit it too far back. Can you see tiny grass like fibers? If so, the arrow may have gone through the stomach. White hair may indicate a low hit. If you never found the arrow or saw it sticking out of the deer, this may indicate poor penetration. Wounded deer tend to go lay down and may go to a suitable bedding area. They also get thirsty and many times look for water so check the streams. Be sure to look in all directions, keeping an open mind about where the deer went. Make every effort to find the deer within the day you shoot it. To my experience, even if it's cold out, if you find it the next day, it will have a smelly odor and much of the meat will smell bad too. You also have the risk that scavenger animals will begin eating it. Occasionally, your looking for the deer and you hear it or see it jump up and run some 40 yards or so in front of you. The deer is wounded and hopefully, slowly bleeding out. If you continue to follow it, it will run again and possibly get harder to find. I recommend you get away from it for a few hours then look again and hopefully find it dead. I've had this happen several times and the deer usually lays down within 60 or so yards.
If I don't find it within 4 or so hours the next day, I give up. The deer could be miles away. I still look in close-by fields and brush. This is the reason it is so important to carefully place the shot.
If your deer went very far and you are out of daylight, you'll need a flashlight to follow a blood trail. The brighter the flashlight, the better. A propane lantern is excellent. Don't waste your money on any special blood illuminating lights. My experience is they are a gimmick and don't work. You generally see drops of blood every 5 feet or so. Follow the blood trail as far as possible.
With a good double lung hit, deer will usually drop within 100 yards but I have had them go much farther and drop. I personally had a deer with a double lung hit go 400 yards before it dropped. Sometimes the blood trail will be more of a light spray and difficult to see. Other times, the blood trail will run out after 80 or so yards. Some blood trails will be light because deer is bleeding internally.
If the blood trail stops, mark the spot with something then continue searching in the direction it was going in a zig zag pattern. If you find more blood, mark it with something. If you run out of blood and have gone over 100 yards, the job becomes difficult but don't give up. Try your best to look a several hundred yard radius around the last known place the deer was. Look for any clues like hoof marks or a piece of a broken arrow. Go back and examine the arrow. Does it smell like intestines? If so, you may have hit it too far back. Can you see tiny grass like fibers? If so, the arrow may have gone through the stomach. White hair may indicate a low hit. If you never found the arrow or saw it sticking out of the deer, this may indicate poor penetration. Wounded deer tend to go lay down and may go to a suitable bedding area. They also get thirsty and many times look for water so check the streams. Be sure to look in all directions, keeping an open mind about where the deer went. Make every effort to find the deer within the day you shoot it. To my experience, even if it's cold out, if you find it the next day, it will have a smelly odor and much of the meat will smell bad too. You also have the risk that scavenger animals will begin eating it. Occasionally, your looking for the deer and you hear it or see it jump up and run some 40 yards or so in front of you. The deer is wounded and hopefully, slowly bleeding out. If you continue to follow it, it will run again and possibly get harder to find. I recommend you get away from it for a few hours then look again and hopefully find it dead. I've had this happen several times and the deer usually lays down within 60 or so yards.
If I don't find it within 4 or so hours the next day, I give up. The deer could be miles away. I still look in close-by fields and brush. This is the reason it is so important to carefully place the shot.
When You Get
Your Deer
Enjoy the moment.
Call a friend and
share your joy. Relax
and take your time
field dressing it.
Think of all the time
you've spent to get
this far and spend a
little more to do the
job right.
Gutting out the deer
should only take 15
minutes or so and is
easy if you've done it
before. If you're
unprepared or this is
your first deer, call
a friend with
experience. I would
enjoy getting a call
from a fellow hunter
that needed help
gutting it out.
Be cautious not to cut into the stomach or intestines. Be even more cautious to not cut yourself. There is a lot of information on the web on how to field dress the deer so I'll not go into it.
Be cautious not to cut into the stomach or intestines. Be even more cautious to not cut yourself. There is a lot of information on the web on how to field dress the deer so I'll not go into it.
Testimonial
Mike Bowman downs a
200 pound 8 point
and tells the
story. Click
here to read his
secret of
success.
Mike does it again in 2013. Learn some of the secrets
Mike does it again in 2013. Learn some of the secrets
Review
Common mistakes
of the novice
archery hunter:
1) Not accurate with a bow. You need to be able to hit a 4" circle consistently at 16 yards and should do better than that.
2) Poor shot placement. Broadside to quartering away is the only shot for me.
3) Poor shot placements may be caused by nervous adrenaline, pounding heart, poor setup, rushed shot... Know your limits. Take a deep breath to calm down.
4) Arrow hit the deer too high. Remember when shooting down at short range the arrow will be high. If the deer ducks, it will hit higher. All these inches add up.
5) Deer saw movement and ran. Freeze when the deer can see you, move when it looks away.
6) Hit deer too far back or too low. It was moving. Don't shoot moving deer. Stop the deer by making a noise or using a grunt call. Seldom does this spook the deer. This may also "freeze" the deer so it doesn't duck the arrow.
7) Deer never get in range. Deer could be smelling you. Wash your cloths after 3 days of use. Use a cover scent. Move deer stand. Try to keep down wind of deer.
1) Not accurate with a bow. You need to be able to hit a 4" circle consistently at 16 yards and should do better than that.
2) Poor shot placement. Broadside to quartering away is the only shot for me.
3) Poor shot placements may be caused by nervous adrenaline, pounding heart, poor setup, rushed shot... Know your limits. Take a deep breath to calm down.
4) Arrow hit the deer too high. Remember when shooting down at short range the arrow will be high. If the deer ducks, it will hit higher. All these inches add up.
5) Deer saw movement and ran. Freeze when the deer can see you, move when it looks away.
6) Hit deer too far back or too low. It was moving. Don't shoot moving deer. Stop the deer by making a noise or using a grunt call. Seldom does this spook the deer. This may also "freeze" the deer so it doesn't duck the arrow.
7) Deer never get in range. Deer could be smelling you. Wash your cloths after 3 days of use. Use a cover scent. Move deer stand. Try to keep down wind of deer.